Step-by-step: dressing interior sills with wooden windows

Step-by-step: dressing interior sills with wooden windows

We are searching data for your request:

Forums and discussions:
Manuals and reference books:
Data from registers:
Wait the end of the search in all databases.
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.

Whether you live in an old house with thick stone walls, or a modern low-consumption house, both offer interior window sills allowing you to consider a first-class seat. This, of course, provided the windows are placed on the outside of the walls. Window dressing is not limited to curtains or window handles. The threshold is an equally important element, especially when it becomes useful and very pleasant to use. However, it is difficult to find anything other than stone or synthetic materials on the market, and always for standardized dimensions. If your walls and windows do not meet industry standards, you will have no choice but to design them yourself. As part of this achievement, we opted for the recovery and rehabilitation of an old oak residential floor. To keep this DIY accessible to as many people as possible, we used a simple electric planer instead of a planer or planer machine (very expensive)Difficulty : way Cost : from 0 € (recovery) to 50 € per m² (if oak) Tools required : - An electric planer - A drill and a drill bit - Trunnions and a mallet - Kraft paper and pencil - A ruler and a square Optional tools : - A circular saw and its ruler

Step 1: Take the dimensions

First of all, it is important to know the dimensions of the seat to be produced. However, we are dealing with an old house with crooked walls and questionable parallelism. Nothing to do, establishing a plan in these conditions by deferring each dimension would be too perilous, too long and practically doomed to failure (curved walls, angles of divergent walls, non-parallel back and front and of different lengths).
The time-saving tip, kraft paper! Cut a sheet large enough to match the surface to be dressed. Apply it firmly on the support and precisely mark the edges (using a pencil or a round-tipped knife).
For the front, mark the fold. Like a sewing pattern, this paper template will do us a great service by avoiding us to take any measure. With your pen, do not forget to mark on the paper the front and the top. Then cut it out, note the longest length, and put it away for now.

Step 2: Plan your boards

Remove any remaining nails from the old floor and verify that the length of the boards exceeds that of the kraft paper. Plan the boards to obtain a flat and clean surface. There are two sides on the floor, if the top side does not give the expected result, the bottom side will remain. As you can imagine, this stage is the longest, but the reward will be all the more gratifying and the pleasure greater.
No need to smooth the underside perfectly which will not be seen, but make sure that it is relatively flat in order to provide a good seat for the whole. After planing, the boards must be trimmed so that the edges are as straight as possible. If you have a circular saw and a ruler, now is the time to use them. Otherwise, planing continues on the sides (the grooves and damaged tongues) in order to create a clean and as straight as possible field.

Step 3: Prepare the assembly

Once your boards are made, you will have to assemble them so that they hold together. As the previous work is "handmade", it is likely that the outer edges of the boards do not coincide perfectly with each other, leaving to perceive a few days. Try several positions to reduce them as much as possible.
Now draw the places where the pins will fit. Place 3 per meter, for each board, this is sufficient. Make a line and a different drawing for each (previous photo) to find exactly the optimum positioning of the boards. Draw the vertical with a square.

Step 4: Measure before drilling

There are two important points to observe before defining the location of the pin on the edge of the board. First, locate the thinner board, and place the first pin at half its thickness, in the middle. In our case, 9 millimeters. It is this which will give the height of the location of the following pins on all the other boards, because they probably do not have the same thickness.
Second, all the pins will therefore be placed 9 millimeters from the surface you intend to be the top (the most beautiful). In this way, even if the boards are not of the same thickness, the overall visible surface will be perfectly flat.

Step 5: Drill the locations

Drill the locations of the pins. Generally the drilling diameter is indicated on the pocket. If your wood is soft, you may be able to drill to a smaller diameter to consolidate the assembly. Give it a try! For the drilling depth, slightly exceed half a pin length.

Step 6: Assemble your boards

Using a mallet (or a hammer, being careful), push the pins into their slots.
Fit the boards together using the mallet (if you are lost, do not forget that you have drawn visual marks)

Step 7: Cut according to the template

Put the assembly in place, and place the kraft paper on it. In pencil, follow the outline indicated by the paper.
With the jigsaw, remove the excess. Before sanding, you can now do a positioning test. You may have to remove material in some places. Proceed in stages, until your threshold arises without forcing.

Step 8: Sand

Sand the angles to avoid splinters, think of the bare thighs that could suffer! Finish with very fine or zero grain paper.

Step 9: Fixing

Your threshold follows the shapes of the walls. The handmade side is perfectly visible, giving the whole a warm imprint. There is no need to fix it if the base is flat. It can easily be removed in the event of a problem (stain, etc.), so as to allow a small repairing sanding.
If you absolutely want to secure the threshold, it is possible to plant a few nails in the shape of a teepee and insert these nails in a hole filled with plaster. Be careful, however, not to put your threshold on a bed of plaster, cement or glue, because the result would probably be disastrous. The wood would soon twist and twist under the effect of trapped moisture.
The age of the wood is solely responsible for the warm, satin finish. There is no stain, no treatment. This old oak floor was well worth spending some time in. There will be people at the window this winter, very warm, in front of the daylight, a good book in hand ... Install a window seal Our practical DIY videos


  1. Qaseem

    Also that we would do without your remarkable phrase

  2. Pegasus


  3. Ring

    Thank you very much for your help in this matter. I did not know it.

  4. Kim

    I'm sorry, this doesn't suit me. Who else can suggest?

  5. Akub

    I think you are not right. I invite you to discuss. Write in PM, we will communicate.

Write a message